Kyrgyzstan Part 1: The Point of No Return (26th August - 8th September)

Three weeks had passed and Col and I were feeling right at home in the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) region colloquially referred to as ‘The Stans’. Prior to this trip all we knew about countries such as Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan is that they would help one kick-ass in a scrabble competition. As such, the unbeknownst quality of these destinations (which are routinely omitted from BBC, CNN and every World Weather broadcast) made the thought of visiting this region a little daunting.

Now Col and I were feeling as relaxed as a couple of locals sitting in their village pub after 10 pints. We could skilfully identify the culinary suspects which would lead to double-strength, bouts of violent diarrhoea, from a mere casual glance in the direction of a Central Asian breakfast buffet. We had grown adept at lurking in the correct dark alleys and shady quarters to sniff out black market fuel from a region chronically out of diesel. We had grown out of the habit of greeting and thanking the largely Russian speaking people in Farsi. Even the lengths we would go to, to try and capture that perfect-gold-tooth grinned shot from a slightly jovially challenged population, had started to wane a little.


Despite our newly acquired complacency, Col and I also perceived that our greatest challenge lay nestled, just around the corner, somewhat ironically amidst tranquil green hills. Alluring Kyrgyzstan the pièce de résistance of ‘the Stans’ with its stunning scenery and natural beauty was the country we had been most eager to visit. However, paradoxically Kyrgyzstan’s latest political instability and five steep mountain passes (not suited for a 2WD Miranda with recent mechanical troubles) had begun playing in the back of our minds. It was a country we didn’t want to avoid due to its alpine lakes and mountainous panoramas. Yet, it was a country we couldn’t avoid, even if we wanted to, because the validity of our subsequent Chinese driving permits, depended on us entering China solely through one of Kyrgyzstan’s least vertically challenged border posts: via the remote and corrugated Irkeshtam pass.

To add to our concerns we were on a strict time schedule in Kyrgyzstan. Although we had two weeks to play with, we would have to complete our Kyrgyz travelling stint on the 8th September, as yet again the validity of our Chinese driving permits depended on us entering China on this set day. This was all well and good, except that due to the recent political instability, Kyrgyzstan’s problems were still simmering below the surface and as such its border posts were regularly subject to closure without notice.

All in all we had to bite the bullet and go for it. We did as much research as possible on Kyrgyzstan’s security situation. Surfing the net for news clips and travel forums and e-mailing travel agents in the region. We were also reassured by our routinely versed mottos that things have a way of working out and everything happens for a reason. Finally we reminded ourselves that the foreign office only like to scare the living daylights out of tourists with their travel warnings as they have to cover their back for every eventuality.